Spin-off 11

Into Beds Arc: Hemel Hempstead to Harpenden via Leighton Buzzard and Luton
Hilliness
Undulating
Hilly
Ride Conditions
Good
Unsurfaced
Percent Off-road
50%
Distance
37.8 miles
Signed
NCN 6, 606

Tags

Description

The latest modification to the Cycle Orbital network (July '23) began with the loss of a Panama hat. That led me to extend spin-off 11b into Luton's historic hat-making district, where I noted the track-bed of the Hertford to Dunstable branch line (aka Arc 12 outer/merged to the east) has been occupied by guided busways with accompanying cycleways westwards. The result: a NW Spin-off 11 Arc that mirrors the Spin-off 5 Arc in the SE - and allows this network to use and celebrate a new form of off-road cycling.

The start point is Hemel Hempstead, where both Arc 11 outer and the termination of Spoke 10 canal are soon encountered. The first miles minimise the Hemel suburbs by skirting above the New Town centre until cycle-permeable Bury Hill 1.4. Shortly after a presumably old trackway has been preserved through the modern suburb of Gadebridge, so it is only at the edge of town, on Berkhamsted Road 3, that traffic is finally encountered. At the charming green at Potton End, bridleways 4.2 take over to cross Berkhamsted golf course. Take the LH bridleway option at Hillingdon Road 4.5 to the war memorial 4.9 as it is better surfaced. There begins several fine miles of Ashridge Forest with both off-road and private road sections, bringing you to the popular heart of the Ashridge Estate.

autumnal haze on Duncombe Terrace
Autumnal haze on Duncombe Terrace

This mid section was well known to me from walks, particularly autumnal; the National Trust’s Ashridge Estate, and the two mile ridge-top Duncombe Terrace from the Bridgewater monument 8.5 is a highlight, culminating at Ivinghoe Beacon 11.2, the prominent landmark hill that was and is the destination for the Ridgeway ancient path. Of course the section is very popular with walkers - care and consideration - but the trees and views magnificent whatever the season.

Ivinghoe Beacon
Ivinghoe Beacon

Thereafter it’s a considerable descent in stages and then a flat unclassified road via Slapton through the Vale of Aylesbury to Leighton Buzzard. The Leighton Buzzard Railway 17.7 is one of the last survivors of the hundreds of 2 foot (610mm) gauge light railways built in Britain for industrial use.

Leighton Buzzard centre 18.5 is a fine example of a market town; the arc takes a loop tour of it before turning eastward. Here also NCN 6 reaches the Grand Union canal, so the rider can continue north to Milton Keynes on the towpath as it meanders beside the River Ouzel, and there is also the option to take a train back to London; Leighton Buzzard lies a quarter of a mile to the west of town.

Eastbound NCN6 knits a quiet path through the Leighton suburbs, then in open country via Eggington and Stanbridge to pick up 23.6 the rail trackbed that will carry the route back to Harpenden, starting with the Sewell Greenway. This is a substantial piece of embankment and cutting engineering to bring the railway up and over the watershed between the Ouzel (Ouse) and Lea (Thames) drainage systems (yes, a little-known fact that the East London river rises beyond the Chilterns escarpment at Leagrave in the Luton suburbs).

After the cutting 26.1, Sewell Greenway gives way 26.8 to the Dunstable-Luton busway. Computer-guided (ordinary) buses whisk passengers through the urban district for fully 6 miles, and active travellers (cyclists and pedestrians) take advantage of the traffic-free pathway that accompanies. This is a pleasure in itself, and as a bonus the busway runs beside the open country of the Chilterns escarpment - the Dunstable Downs - before crossing the M1.

After the M1 the path descends into central Luton beside the Hatters Way road. Before the Vauxhall factory and airport, Luton was world famous as a centre of hat making, first of straw plaited women's hats, then industrialised hats for both sexes, but there was catastrophic collapse in the 1930's and only vestiges - a few buildings in the town centre - remain. In one of these the tradition is continued by the Panama Hat Company, which replaced my hat - and prompted this revision.

The busway enters a large interchange at Luton station  31.9and continues for half a mile. To avoid busy Gypsy Lane turn R Osborne Road 32.7 to regain NCN6 from central Luton which via an underpass 33.6 at Luton Airport Parkway becomes the Upper Lea Valley Way by regaining the old Hertford – Dunstable branch line track bed. This is metalled throughout, but being in a valley bottom there are no expansive views, except of Luton Hoo Park when it climbs to a local summit 34.3 where you can sit with three local heroes: Eric Morcambe, Capability Brown, and a Luton Sea Scout. 

The long arc ends by either merging with Arc 12 outer on the Ayot Greenway as it now becomes, or climb 37.2 up to the Midland main line where the choice is a ride home from Harpenden or Arc 11 back to Hemel Hempstead on the Nickey Line; a rewarding 45 mile circuit.

Route
Bridgewater Monument, Ashridge Forest NT: Spin-off 11
Ivinghoe Beacon: Spin-off 11
Grand Union again at Leighton Buzzard and NCN6: Spin-off 11
Sewell Greenway cutting: Spin-off 11
Luton-Dunstable busway: Spin-off 11
Geoff and friends at Luton Hoo: Spin-off 11